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Thread: Ecler Nuo5 Rotary mod - has anyone done it?

  1. #11
    Member djpenguin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by efinque View Post
    Yes that's true, the channel preamps are built from various kits, slightly modified though as is the headphone amp. But most preamp designs are universal aren't they?
    Not really. The principles behind electrical amplification (both with and without feedback) are universal and well-established, but the actual topology of amplifier circuits varies quite widely, even within a narrow field of application like audio. I've designed a number of different audio amplifier circuits to serve different purposes, and the details definitely change depending on the design requirements.
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  2. #12
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    so finally getting back at this, after the wife having a kid so time was not mine. got all my bits: rotary 100k pots, knobs, wiring, 3d printed rotary faceplate and match the pinout. just 2 slight problems...

    1. when i match the pinout with the rotary (lets say 7 o'clock is 0% vol, 12 o'c 50% and 5 o'c is 100%) if i sweep to from 7 through to 5 i get 0% at 7, 100% at 12 and 0% again at 5.

    2. if i then remove the bridged pins i get 0% at 7, 50% is at 12 and 100% at about 4 with 0% again at 5

    any ideas? almost there.... i can smell it!!

  3. #13
    Moderator Mark_Spit's Avatar
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    Good to see you're finally making progress! Having a baby takes up a lot of time - congrats BTW!

    It sounds like you have the pinout wrong. I assume you have a multi-meter? Test (re-test) the old sliders and see where the mistake was made.

    Hopefully Penguin is still lurking around and can chime in; he'd be a much better help than myself.

    Post some pics too as they can be helpful.
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  4. #14
    Yes, you've got to trace out the connections on the original faders and match them. There are three pins on the fader.. one toward the bottom, one toward the top and one which connects to the slider contact. The slider one is the most important to identify and it will usually come out on one end but just slightly offset inward or there'll be two pins on one end and one pin on the other end and the pins that are directly opposite each other those are the end pins and the slider pin will be the odd man out. That slider wire should now connect to the center pin of the three on your rotary. The bottom fader pin goes to the left pin on your rotary as it is facing you and the top fader wire goes to the rightmost pin on the rotary.

  5. #15
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    So looks like I got it sorted lads! Have the ground shield bridge on the wrong side of the pot. Will take a few photos and upload them soon. Have all the soldering done so gonna install them and give them a test run this evening. Delighted, especially since the lot cost me about €10, as opposed to the €200 your man Marios from the rotary group on Facebook is charging people. I know I have access to a 3D printer, so that makes it cheaper, but for 200 you could buy all the parts and a 3D printer to use afterwards! Watch this space anyway lads and thanks for all the help and suggestions! Absolutely thrilled!!

    some pics here https://imgur.com/gallery/r2kWgzs

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3767203
    Last edited by elsparko; 07-24-2019 at 07:42 AM. Reason: added imgur gallery and 3D print file

  6. #16
    Supermod pea Manu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elsparko View Post
    but for 200 you could buy all the parts and a 3D printer to use afterwards!
    Point. Repped.

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  8. #18
    Nice job

  9. #19
    Moderator Mark_Spit's Avatar
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    Great gob Elsparko!

    I'd love to see the faceplate in the dark. That's pretty cool
    However, I'm curious if you have any clearance issues with it being much more thick than the original faceplate?
    Ya gotta love corn, it's one of the only foods that says good-bye.

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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark_Spit View Post
    Great gob Elsparko!

    I'd love to see the faceplate in the dark. That's pretty cool
    However, I'm curious if you have any clearance issues with it being much more thick than the original faceplate?
    now that you mention it, id say a print that is about 1mm thinner might be worth a shot. It's not too much thicker at all, and will depend on the resolution you print at. I can amend that in my next print anyway, but you really notice it on the x-fader. Thankfully I don't use it much. For the moment it's fine though, especially for the test runs. Got it set up last night, which is how I noticed the clearance, and also managed to crush one of the pots on the way home from work so need to repair that or wait until the new one arrives.

    I'll hopefully get to spend a bit of time over the weekend playing around with it so ill post a pic of the glow plate if I get the chance!

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