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Thread: Enough power/electricity to run it all efficiently?

  1. #1
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    Enough power/electricity to run it all efficiently?

    As a mobile DJ dealing primarily with weddings and school dances, the first thing I look for when I enter a venue is the amount and locations of power outlets. Most folks are very helpful in being able to point them out to me but very few can actually tell me if they are on same circuit/breaker or not. Maybe i'm too anxious but when I am forced to plug into only two outlets (or God forbid one outlet!) I'm always worried I'm going to pop a breaker or there will not be enough to properly power my equipment to give me the best sound.

    I know there is a lot of very technical info out there on electricity and what not, but I'm looking for some 'down to earth' easy to understand type language on what I should be looking for or doing to maximize the power but also being careful not to overdue it.

    I'll list all my powered equipment to give you an idea of what I'm drawing electrical wise:

    Laptop Charger
    DJ Mixer
    Wireless Mics
    Small personal fan
    2 18" Subs
    2 15" Tops
    2 ADJ Dotz Tpar systems
    Mini Kinta/ADJ Jelly Fish (occasionaly use these for school dances)


    I try to keep my subs on their own outlet. I assume they draw the most power so hoping that outlet is on its own circuit. Everything on my table goes into an eight outlet surge protector. I also try and use the heaviest gauge cables as I can for power (typically 14 awg) to allow the most flow but the downside is that they are thick and cumbersome compared to an 18 awg.

    Am I over thinking it? Am I ok plugging multple things into one outlet or same circuit? Can I back off on my cable awg size? Or am I looking for trouble and an embarrassing shut down? Any thoughts, info or reading would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Nick

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by stlstudent View Post
    2 18" Subs
    2 15" Tops
    I'll cut right to the chase, these right here are what you have to worry about, all the rest of it combined won't draw as much current as one of the subs. So with that said we need more info on these speakers. Are they powered or passive? Are they relative new or old dinosaurs? These specifics will make a big difference, for example if the speaker were passive and you were driving them with a bridged Macrotech 5000VZ the AC current draw would be very high compared to if you were using a Berry iNuke 6000 with 1 speaker per channel. And any powered speaker built in the last few years will be much more electrically efficient than something that is 15yrs old.

    Quote Originally Posted by stlstudent View Post
    I also try and use the heaviest gauge cables as I can for power (typically 14 awg) to allow the most flow but the downside is that they are thick and cumbersome compared to an 18 awg.
    That is good practice but the distance from the outlet also affects the wire gauge needed, I wouldn't suggest 14awg for anything over 30ft or so with a relatively heavy current draw and I wouldn't recommend using 18awg for powered speaker or amplifier connections at all.. leave that for LED lighting and your small signal electronics.. controller and laptop n such.

    As an example I have some 25ft 14awg extensions for use with the powered subs and speakers that I have, if I have to go further for outlets I also have 50ft 12awg cables but these don't come out often, I don't even load them in the van unless I'm going somewhere I haven't been before. Everything else in my kit ranges form 16awg to 14awg, the only 18awg I have are special IEC cables I ordered for my LED uplighting.
    Paul O'Brien
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    Quote Originally Posted by conanski View Post
    I'll cut right to the chase, these right here are what you have to worry about, all the rest of it combined won't draw as much current as one of the subs. So with that said we need more info on these speakers. Are they powered or passive? Are they relative new or old dinosaurs? These specifics will make a big difference, for example if the speaker were passive and you were driving them with a bridged Macrotech 5000VZ the AC current draw would be very high compared to if you were using a Berry iNuke 6000 with 1 speaker per channel. And any powered speaker built in the last few years will be much more electrically efficient than something that is 15yrs old.

    That is good practice but the distance from the outlet also affects the wire gauge needed, I wouldn't suggest 14awg for anything over 30ft or so with a relatively heavy current draw and I wouldn't recommend using 18awg for powered speaker or amplifier connections at all.. leave that for LED lighting and your small signal electronics.. controller and laptop n such.

    As an example I have some 25ft 14awg extensions for use with the powered subs and speakers that I have, if I have to go further for outlets I also have 50ft 12awg cables but these don't come out often, I don't even load them in the van unless I'm going somewhere I haven't been before. Everything else in my kit ranges form 16awg to 14awg, the only 18awg I have are special IEC cables I ordered for my LED uplighting.
    Thanks for the reply. Both the subs are JBL PRX718XLF's which are 1500w powered subs. The tops are JBL EON 615's powered cabinets. I almost always try and put my two subs on the closest outlet and do not run cable more than 10 feet if at all possible. The tops have to sometimes run a longer cable as it has to be long enough to run down the pole and across the floor to an outlet. I never put the subs and tops on the same outlet but not sure that matters if the two outlets are still on the same circuit right?

    I believe all my extension cords are at least 14 awg with a couple of 12 awg. I try and stay away from using extension cords if at all possible because I do have quite a few power cords in different lengths and different awg. Not sure I have any 12 awg in power cord but do have and use 14 awg. It just seems a bit stiffer and harder to hide.

    So you think its okay to run both my Dotz Tpar system off the same outlet/surge protector that I run all my small electronics (laptop, mixer, fan, etc...)?

  4. #4
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    Hi nip down to your electronics store pick up a plug in power meter $9 plug it into the wall and then watch the power being sucked
    Now you are right subs x 2 on a standard circuit is ok as long as there is nothing else on that circuit

    I won't bore you with details but in Australia a standard circuit (which appreciate in a venue might have x3 outlets so maybe on the other side of the wall you are plugged into is a kitchen and a 1000watt microwave or kettle in which case there is half your power

    Here are circuits are 2400watt 10 amp. That little power meter will show you the watts you drinking

    NOTE in my case with QSC the subs and tops all 1000w amps so theoretically I need two circuits BUT! That's MAX and rarely I hit that BUT you might here the thing. When I use subs and switch the tops to EXTERNAL SUB MODE the drivers in the tops aren't working as hard to hit the lows so the power consumtion of two tops SCREAMING that I can't hear myself is hitting 4-500watt max. Of course if I ditch subs and just use x2 12s tops. Even switching them into DEEP (bass boost)
    They still are not bashing the 2000 watt mark but can hit up in the 6-800. So for most weddings e.g. 60 PAX I can comfortably run lights speakers deck mixer laptop and probably conservatively still have 1200watt headroom

    Even though most gear has a power rating on watts on it. E.g. Laptop charger 90 watts the draw might only be 60
    Likewise LED. Fixture 9 watts and meter with all leds at 100% says 7.1. But plug in things separately and get some numbers.

    E.G. FOGGERS SEE WHAT THEY SUCK WHEN on heat mode and not.

    It's worth it's weight in gold best 9 dollars ( prolly cheaper in states) you can spend. Bigger jobs more power usually bigger venues that have 3 phase of so look into a 3 phase distribution board they are the bomb but we talking about 12 2400w circuits. Great for geysers subs and complex lighting rigs

    OPOAT

    SORRY if grammar is bad on my cell

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stlstudent View Post
    So you think its okay to run both my Dotz Tpar system off the same outlet/surge protector that I run all my small electronics (laptop, mixer, fan, etc...)?
    Yes no problem at all.
    Paul O'Brien
    Old Tech Guy
    www.Techott.com

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    thanks for the great info! I'll have to pick one of these up, I'm assuming it plugs into the outlet and then you plug your device into it. If so, I guess a good test would be to plug it in and then plug a surge protector into it and then plug ALL my gear (maybe minus my subs) into the surge protector to see how much ALL my gear pulls at the same time.

    one of the hardest things and i'm not sure if its even possible, is to determine at a venue which outlets are on different circuits and which aren't. Also, like you said, you never know if there is other electronics (microwaves, ovens, etc...) hooked into your same circuit. Only once have I had a janitor help me and let me know what was plugged in where and what circuits were what.

  7. #7
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    Which of these would be better?

    https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4330-Kill...ds=kill+a+watt

    or

    https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...ds=kill+a+watt


    Besides price, it looks like the only difference is I can plug in multiple things vs just one at a time. But could I not just use the single outlet and then plug a power strip into it to see what all my gear pulls at the same time?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stlstudent View Post
    Which of these would be better?

    Besides price, it looks like the only difference is I can plug in multiple things vs just one at a time. But could I not just use the single outlet and then plug a power strip into it to see what all my gear pulls at the same time?
    Yes you got it.
    Paul O'Brien
    Old Tech Guy
    www.Techott.com

  9. #9
    I've run everything on one outlet without issue..at a school, so mabe 20amp or 15..don't know for sure.
    I've got a kill-a-watter meter and have used it to see what I draw.
    I've plugged everything in at home in a 15amp no issues.
    When using most of it on a 50ft extension cord..at high power (full volume) I do see hints that i'm at the limit..but it's a residential 50ft cord..didnt' try my good cord (larger wire)

    2 laptops, mixer, controller, wireless mic, compressor, phone charger, donner dmx transmitter, 2 dxr12 powered speakers, 2 etx18 powered subs (claimed total of 5600w), eco uv, acrobat (not led), 4 moving heads, 2 kintas, 2 par64, play4, micro galaxian.

    I've also run all but teh lights off a 1700w genset without issue.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by prof_fate View Post
    I've run everything on one outlet without issue..at a school, so mabe 20amp or 15..don't know for sure.
    I've got a kill-a-watter meter and have used it to see what I draw.
    I've plugged everything in at home in a 15amp no issues.
    When using most of it on a 50ft extension cord..at high power (full volume) I do see hints that i'm at the limit..but it's a residential 50ft cord..didnt' try my good cord (larger wire)

    2 laptops, mixer, controller, wireless mic, compressor, phone charger, donner dmx transmitter, 2 dxr12 powered speakers, 2 etx18 powered subs (claimed total of 5600w), eco uv, acrobat (not led), 4 moving heads, 2 kintas, 2 par64, play4, micro galaxian.

    I've also run all but teh lights off a 1700w genset without issue.
    Wow, you've run ALL of that off one outlet and had not issues? I'd figure the 4 powered speakers (2 tops and 2 subs) would be enough to pop the breaker at full volume/power!

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