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Thread: Custom table build

  1. #11
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    Next up is the bases for the speaker stands. I bought 2" galvanized pipet Home Depot which I put on the wood lathe and used sandpaper and scotchbrite pads to get to the brushed finish I liked. The bases are L-shaped connectors which are secured into their own compartment with epoxy.
    Below, you can see plywood was cut to secure the L-shaped connector which the poxy was then poured into to secure it even better.


    Here it is with stuff all over it as weight to help keep the posts aligned while the poxy dries.

    Once dried, a topcap was secured over the top to allow for more support for the MDF which will be attached to the top and bottom sides.


    Below you can see the inside of the table with holes for the other end of the L-shaped connector. This is where wires will feed from down the pipes into the inner compartment of the table.
    There's also an additional hole on one side where the power will be fed from the foot of one of the legs to the inner compartment here.

  2. #12
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    Next, cut the 1/2" MDF to size and make kerf cuts to allow it to be bent around the 90 degree corners.
    I nailed these pieces into the frame and also filled the kerf cuts with liquid nails to give it more strength and also to help it to stick to the ribs (small cross pieces of scrap wood)

    If you google "MDF kerf" you'll see tons of pics & vids on what it is and how to do it. Basically, its making a series of cuts on one side which don't go all the way through the wood which weakens it enough to be able to bend it.

    You can see its in, but the problem is it has flat lines which sort of bulge.

    This isn't a problem, however, because I was planning on using bondo to create the smooth shape I wanted.
    Last edited by NickyJ; 03-10-2015 at 01:06 AM.

  3. #13
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    Here is the bottom surface being secured. I used the speaker stands to secure the inner corner kerf/rounded inner edges while they dried (nailed into the inner frame & liquid nails into the kerf cuts to add strength to the kerf cuts and also to help adhere it to the rib/cross pieces of wood.


    Bondo applied to smooth out any seams, screw or nail-holes and sanded, then re-bondo'd and re-sanded.

    You can see in the pic below where a hole was cut for the power in port.

    Last edited by NickyJ; 03-10-2015 at 01:59 AM.

  4. #14
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    Attaching the inner compartment using plywood to the front, back and bottom.


    Kept adding bondo and sanding it down until nice and smooth. It looks like hell in the pics, but I assure you its nice and smooth and once painted will look and feel nice.

    Also, used a router bit to smooth out all corners of every surface of the table so they are all uniform without any hard edges.


    Last edited by NickyJ; 03-10-2015 at 01:20 AM.

  5. #15
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    Here it is with the speaker pipes installed:



  6. #16
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    Cutting the insert plate for my turntable and mixer would have been a lot easier if I had a Technics or other square shaped turntable. Since I'm using a Vestax PDX with curved corners, I had to drop $50 on a 3/4" round router bit so it would fit snug.


  7. #17
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    Speaker & laptop platforms:

    Each is 2 parts. 3/4" piece of ply with a hole the size of the pipe flange cut out so when all done, you won't see most of the flange giving it a really custom look.
    The second part is 1/2" plywood with only a hole big enough to be able to fit the wires I plan on passing through.

    All edges were routed using the same bit as the rest of the table.



  8. #18
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    I am almost ready to send it out for painting. I plan on going for a glossy white. Got estimates from various paint shops including auto body paint shops. Estimates were around $400-600 for auto paint.

    I finally found a paint place (not auto related) that'll do it for $350 and they'll use a compound finish that will be part lacquer but stronger !

    The crazy thing is that the most expensive part of this table is going to end up being the paint job.

    Ugh, I can't wait for this to be done.
    Last edited by NickyJ; 03-10-2015 at 02:02 AM.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by NickyJ View Post
    I am almost ready to send it out for painting. I plan on going for a glossy white. Got estimates from various paint shops including auto body paint shops. Estimates were around $400-600 for auto paint.

    I finally found a paint place (not auto related) that'll do it for $350 and they'll use a compound finish that will be part lacquer but stronger !

    The crazy thing is that the most expensive part of this table is going to end up being the paint job.

    Ugh, I can't wait for this to be done.
    Nearly there Brother .... I can't wait to see this finished ... You have done a great job so far
    How much would you say the project has cost so far( including finish ) ?

    Shame about the extra lay out for the router bit ... But i think the curve of the deck will look stunning
    Seen your other thread about the deck mod ... Looking good

    Are you planning on having the deck sit totally flush to the surface of the table or a bit proud ?

    Wish you lived near me Brother ... I would Deffo commission you to build one for me lol

    Last question ... How many man hours would you say this project has taken ?

    Good luck ... Hope the spray job gets done quick

    Peace

  10. #20
    Member gammagoblin's Avatar
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    Great job.

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