Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: Quality RCA cable replacements for 1210s

  1. #11
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Woking, United Kingdom
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by DTR View Post
    You need to detirmine what plug terminal each cable core is terminated to. I'd guess that red and white connect to right channel pin and ring repectively, and the blue and yellow connect to left channel pin and ring repectively. But you need to check this yourself with a multimeter. I expect that the outer screen is floating, i.e. not connected to anything.

    If (and only if) this is the case, you need to connect it to the tonearm PCB as follows:
    red cable core to PCB R+
    white cable core to PCB R-
    blue cable core to PCB L+
    yellow cable core to PCB L-

    If you're doing the ground mod too, the ground can be connected to either R- or L- (I think traditionally it's connected to L-, but it doesn't make a difference in practise).

    Hope this helps

    Thank you DTR. That makes sense. I will get the multimeter out and double check. Cheers for your help.

  2. #12
    Member Estacy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by DTR View Post
    (I think traditionally it's connected to L-, but it doesn't make a difference in practise).
    You should ground it to the Red RCA cable, so R-. with some odd carts it could happen that you have issues if connected to L-. In practice you will probably never have this problem, but why not do it right the first time since it literally does not matter time wise.
    'George Clinton meeting Kraftwerk in an elevator'

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by jameshouse View Post
    Thank you DTR. That makes sense. I will get the multimeter out and double check. Cheers for your help.
    No worries. Let us know how you get on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Estacy View Post
    You should ground it to the Red RCA cable, so R-. with some odd carts it could happen that you have issues if connected to L-. In practice you will probably never have this problem, but why not do it right the first time since it literally does not matter time wise.
    I'll go along with that
    www.dnbradio.com

    Quote Originally Posted by Doppelganger
    He's just like me, only he's a man and more stupid

  4. #14
    These actually did me really well http://www.juno.co.uk/products/male-...ack/411758-01/
    Check out my weekly show on The *Underground Sessions, every Sunday afternoon from 12pm until 2pm - www.mixlr.com/the-underground-sessions--2
    www.soundcloud.com/dougie_dj || www.facebook.com/dougieldn || www.twitter.com/dougie_dj_

  5. #15
    New Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    netherlands
    Posts
    29
    why not upgrading the standard tonearm cables at the same time..... that's not a hard job and quite usefull. Offcourse you don't buy real hi fi ones, but for about 80 dollar or pounds, cause everybody is saying, it's hi-fi, which it really ain't ,but nobody even replaces the tonearmwires. Vestax likes glue, that's a real shitty job to put other wires or a longer carbon arm and tryimg to loosen the sme screw. But the longer lighter arms performs way better then the too short and too heavy standard one.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
a