About ready to overhaul my 1200's, lights, cables, pitch faders. What else?

[Cryder]

So I'm getting all the parts assembled to freshen up my M3D's that were built in 2000. They're in pretty good shape overall but I think that the pitch faders have taken a beating and are not as precise as I'd like them, so those are getting replaced with new ones. At the same time I'm upgrading all the lighting to white LED's and replacing the stock cables with some nicer RCA's and rewiring the ground through them.

All pretty basic stuff, but is there anything else inside that should receive my attention while I've got them opened up? I'm thinking largely in the way of cleaning/lubrication and replacement of any parts known to wear. I'd like to lube the spindle as well as the arm lift/cue mechanism, any ideas for the proper oil/goop to do that?

I've also got a little treat in store with regards to the exterior, but that's a secret for now ;)

[DTR]

Sounds like you've got it covered :shrug:

I use 3 in 1 oil for lubing the spindle etc.

[Nicadraus]

So I'm getting all the parts assembled to freshen up my M3D's that were built in 2000. They're in pretty good shape overall but I think that the pitch faders have taken a beating and are not as precise as I'd like them, so those are getting replaced with new ones. At the same time I'm upgrading all the lighting to white LED's and replacing the stock cables with some nicer RCA's and rewiring the ground through them.

All pretty basic stuff, but is there anything else inside that should receive my attention while I've got them opened up? I'm thinking largely in the way of cleaning/lubrication and replacement of any parts known to wear. I'd like to lube the spindle as well as the arm lift/cue mechanism, any ideas for the proper oil/goop to do that?

I've also got a little treat in store with regards to the exterior, but that's a secret for now ;)

The arm/lift mechanism does need cleaning before lubricating it with grease and not oil. I use Tamiya gear grease that are used for R/C (radio controlled) cars. Because automotive gear grease is too thick and dense. Same thing is applied to the tone arm height ring adjuster. But make sure to remember the setting of the ring adjuster before you take it apart.

Remember that there are six ways to put it back but only only one is correct.

Good luck and let us know if you encounter some problems. We're here to help. :)

[Cryder]

Thanks for the encouragement! I was thinking about using something like a white lithium grease for the tonearm mechanisms but if RC grease does the trick I'll get that, probably cheaper anyways.

Regarding reassembly, I've got the manual from The Vinyl Engine and I've been watching tons of videos, is there any definitive source for this information that I should know about? I'm pretty handy with this sort of thing but I don't want any costly mistakes...

[Steve E Wunda]

Thanks for the encouragement! I was thinking about using something like a white lithium grease for the tonearm mechanisms but if RC grease does the trick I'll get that, probably cheaper anyways.

Regarding reassembly, I've got the manual from The Vinyl Engine and I've been watching tons of videos, is there any definitive source for this information that I should know about? I'm pretty handy with this sort of thing but I don't want any costly mistakes...

White lithium grease or any type of lithium based grease = No bueno. That stuff is good for plumbing fixtures and stuff that is stationary, but not for moving parts on a turntable like the arm lever and tonearm height ring.

[L2daGee]

They will be like new again. I recommend also giving the dots on the platter a proper cleaning as well.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/LShaped210/IMG_0200.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/LShaped210/IMG_0201.jpg

So shiny!

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/LShaped210/IMG_0205.jpg

[Makero]

nice! what did you use to clean the platter?

[mavericckk..]

nice! what did you use to clean the platter?

second that! how do u do it? sand n buff?

[L2daGee]

second that! how do u do it? sand n buff?

First of all, I tried just about every cleaning method for super-dirty dots. None of them work, except the wet-sanding method.

1. Clean off the surface dirt with a stiff brush and some dish-washing soap.
2. Wet-sand with 600 grit sandpaper
3. Then 1500 grit
4. Then 2000 grit
5. Buff with a metal polish, or simply use a polishing cloth (which is what I did).

Fine grit sandpaper can be found at auto-parts stores. It is the same sand paper used to finish up car paint jobs.

This method is tedious and takes an ample amount of time, but the results are well worth it.

[DTR]

sand paper

In the UK at least, the paper you need is better known as Wet & Dry paper :)

Wet & Dry generally uses a Silicon Carbide abrasive as opposed to sand paper which uses Aluminium Oxide.

[Raindance Rob]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/401281_10151293917610621_791265620_23006236_764095 177_n.jpg

the LED mod looks great imo i left the strobe light red tho as i think it looks better imo. i changed the pitch on my 1200 MK2 A-XA tho just before i changed the LEDs as it had started to drift i brought the version with the PCB which was dead easy to fit. i also changed the ground wires & RCAs awhile back

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/407924_10151279173075621_791265620_22964849_131788 0540_n.jpg

[Cryder]

Ah yeah, my dots need cleaning as well...

[punky]

If I were you, I'd perform the internal ground mod, getting rid of your pesky ground wire forever.